Stewart Island- Rakiura- Pictures

Sorry for the delay, but here are but a few of the best photos of our xmas adventure on stewart island

Fred's Camp jetty, where we got dropped off by the water taxi.

A slice of paradise

setting off on the first day

heavy pack but good mood!

second day of hiking. hard work

nearly there

Doughboy bay beach, where we spent julafton

one of the absolute highlights, I feel so privileged to have seen one of these little buggers in the wild!

the infamous Stewart Island mud- this is what it was like most of the way


last day, so sore, so tired but nearly there

84 kilometres through HARD terrain



It was a long way to go for fish and chips really

Stewart Island- Rakiura

Very long account of our Xmas tramp. Read it all or just bits of it. Pics coming soon!

Day 1
We got the ferry over in the late morning and explored Oban for a bit before making our way over to Golden Bay where we'd set a date with Ian who would take us to Fred's Camp in his water taxi. we had the 10 bunk hut to ourselves that night, got some mussels in the afternoon and went fishing and exploring, got the fire going and made a cosy start to our visit.

Day 2 – First day of tramping. Fred's Camp to Rakeahua hut.
DoC estimate- 5 hours
Our walking time- 6 hrs
Distance- 12 km

Easy enough most of the way but the infamous Stewart Island mud and the heavy packs made it hard, especially towards the end. I was getting so tired towards the end (this tramping lark took some time getting used to) so the hut was a welcome sight and had a little potbelly which we lit to make it warm and snuggly. We were sharing the hut with an English guy who'd come from the other direction and he told us that the next leg was incredible challenging so I was a bit apprehensive when I went to bed...

Day 3 Rakeahua to Doughboy Bay Hut
DoC estimate time-7-8 hours
Our walking time- 7 hrs 10 min
Distance- 16 km

Such hard going at times but it made a difference that we were mentally prepared for it! Lots of ups and downs and a few steep bits but it was so rewarding stepping on to the beach after that grueling climb down. The view for the top had been amazing as it was a beautiful day. Felt really proud that we'd finished it and I didn't once think that I couldn't do it! Sharing the hut with four rough looking kiwi men in their 50's that soon turned out to be softer than butter on a hot day; all herbal tea, honey and kiwi spotting which we were welcome to join in on. Saw our first kiwi in the wild out on the beach, in the dark, busy little kiwi finding food in the sand. So cool!

Day 4- julafton- Rest day

We had planned to be sitting on the beach and swimming on our rest day but the weather had other plans for us. We went for a short walk in the morning but I was so exhausted i crashed and burned (unlike Harland who just went sliding down a slippery slope on his arse). The rest of the day consisted of keeping the fire going to dry out socks.

Day 5- Xmas Day- Doughboy By to Mason Bay Hut

DoC est time- 7hrs
Our walking time- 6 hrs
Distance- 18 km
This was really quite an easy day, partly because we were so mentally ready for it. There was a steep bit at the beginning which we blasted and before long we were at the beach. Then there was one and a half hour of walking on the beach against the wind which soon got very boring and felt never ending. There was a kiwi couple and a canadian girl as well as the Bubblegum Parade from Doughboy in the hut that night. We went kiwi spotting and saw one rummaging around the bushes. We made a crazy decision to do a double header the next day so we decided to get up early

Day 6 Mason Bay to Sawdust bay Campground

Had the best start to the day. A kiwi was out on the lawn in front of the hut was having its breakfast just as we were having ours. I watched it for ages. We decided to break this epic day in to smaller bits:

Leg 1 Mason Bay to Freshwater Hut
DoC est time- 3-4 hrs
Our time- 2.45
Distance- 15.5 km
The walk started off through old farmland where people from Shetland had come to farm but eventually gave up because of the rough conditions on the island (people from Shetland thought it was too rough, blimey!). The rest of the walk through the swamp was flat and rather boring and we decided to march at 500 mph. Got to Freshwater and had some soup and crackers just as it had started raining.

Leg 2 Freshwater to North Arm Hut
DoC est- 6-7 hrs
Our walking time- 6
Distance- 11 km
this bit would have been easy with fresh legs but I was struggling a bit. Luckily the rain subsided but it was still very muddy (again: Stewart island mud, ankle deep at best and that's after a dry week) at times especially up on Thompson ridge. Once we joined on to the Rakiura track (which is a so called Great Walk, which basically means it is easier and expensive) it got easy peasy, boardwalks all the way almost. My quad muscle was very sore after a hard day of stepping up and down steep muddy climbs. We finally got to the hut and had our dinner, talked to some very nice people and then moved on once our feet had dried out.

Leg 3 North Arm Hut to Sawdust Bay campsite
DoC est time- 1.30
My limping time- 1.10
Distance 2.5 km
I was tired and sore but we got there after having been on the go for about 13 hours. Felt good. When we were lying in the tent the last night (freezing our backsides off) I started thinking about going back to the mainland and I felt a sting of sadness.

Day 7

Walked the final 12 km back in to Oban got our well deserved fish and chips (LITERALLY the best fish and chips in the world, KAI KART, I mean it, blue cod straight off the local fishermen's boat in to the fryer, world famous for a reason). We had done it. 84.5 kilometres in 5 days of walking. Felt so proud. And smelly, well, what do you expect, we'd more or less been in the same clothes and not had a shower for nearly a week. We spent a few hours in Oban before getting on the ferry, relaxing in the sun and filling our tummies.

I was genuinely so, so sad that it was over. I couldn't have kept going due to being tired and sore but I didn't want it to end. It was such an amazing experience, one I'll never forget, we got to see so many remote, stunning places, places you can't drive to. (just the fact that we walked to the southernmost place we've ever been is something else. I don't know if it is tramping I've fallen in love with or if it is the place but I really didn't want it to be over. If my leg hadn't been buggered I would have probably chucked Harland over my shoulder and run back in to the bush again...

strange christmas

it'll be this year, not only will it be warm(ish), it'll be on the other side of the world. But just like the two previous years it's just the two of us and I'm hoping for a christmas with family next year, maybe in gotlaborg??? :) you don't know what you've got til it's gone and I think I'm due a family christmas in sweden .

The temeratures of the south island keep disappointing but in spite of that we're heading of on a 7-9 day hike (or "tramp" as we're in NZ) on Stewart Island (look it up on multimap, don't have time to link to it). We've been told by a lot of people that Stewart Island (Raikura) is a beautiful place, something extraordinary, secluded, off the beaten track, et.c. So we're very excited of course! And their is a rich birdlife as well, with the allusive Kiwi trotting around for all to see!:)

As always, very short of time on the computer (so forgive the spelling mistakes (DAD)) so before I get to soppy,

God Jul alla nara och kara. Hoppas ni far det riktigt fint!

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all of you!

today...

we went up the mountain and came down safely again. It was hard work going up, scary and steep up top and hard work coming back down.

here are a couple of the little dudes that dropped in for a visit and a tug at our bags at the top of the mountain. (Kea-NZ mountain parrots)

Arthurs Ass

We are currently in Arthur's Pass village and tomorrow we will be doing a small hike up to Avalanche Peak (nice name, I know) approx 1850 m. It almost feels like we left summer behind on the north island because it is cold down here! Luckily we have invested in some merino wool clothes that will hopefully keep us warm on our excursions (haha mamma! om det ar nat du vill ha, understall t.ex sa kolla priser pa icebreaker eller sok pa merino woll nz).

We've been on the south island for five days now and so far we've been quite busy (so has the bank account) with wine touring on bike in Marlborough, whale watching at and a very spontaneous drive from the west coast through Lewis pass and now back again via Arthur's (P)ass. Truly stunning here with mountains, turquoise rivers that look very cold, and green, green hills, unfortunately the weather is what it is and it is green for a reason...

Looking forward to tomorrow and getting closer to the infamous kea, a bird that takes great interest in us humans and what we get up to, resulting in them nicking shiny things (cameras, jewellery or whatever they can get their cheeky little beaks on) left unattended and ripping rubber off cars. There are a lot of them here in the national park and apparently there's Kiwi about as well, maybe we'll be lucky enough to see one. We did see a weka the other day and my heart jumped thinking it was a kiwi...

South Island

Just to let everyone know, we've arrived on the south island now (well at some stupid hour in the morning and we've been sleeping in a carpark until now), safe and sound. The crossing was "smooth as" but horribly cold and dark. Unfortunately the weather is a bit naff but I'm staying warm in my new merino woll jacket :)

A week in B.O.I

As our week in the Bay of Islands is coming to an end and we're packing everything back in the car again, here are a few highlights. Tomorrow we'll be on the road again, heading down to the south island stopping a few places along the way. Looking forward to being on the road again because there is nothing better than me and my darling, free to go where the wind (not harlands wind btw) takes us, doing what we feel like when we feel like it. On the other hand we've had such a good time here and Sarah has made us feel so welcome and at home in their beautiful home (with the dream kitchen btw) and it will be hard leaving certain commodities behind...

Harland and Chris went fishing on saturday which was productive, Harland's big snapper lasted two dinners and Chris' mackerel was yummy too. On Sunday we went out fishing with Harly's mum Jenny and her Hugh and the weather was most amazing, as were the views!

And I found a trampoline by the beach

We went swimming off the boat, first time in the water without a wetsuit
and it was so nice i was reluctant to get out.

Below: a little slice of paradise we found yesterday, Elliot bay, a surf beach but the waves were too harsh for me which was frustrating at first but then i learned to enjoy playing around in the waves, sitting on my board relaxing and sunbathing on the beach

Today: Weather was a bit naff at first but cleared up in the afternoon and we went over to Russel with Sarah, Chris, Ethan and Jenny. Russel is the most amazing little place across from Paihia, 15 min on the ferry (which Ethan did not enjoy at all), with a combination of seaside beauty and historical places and delicious pizza to be enjoyed on the beach!

Below: Russel, Pohutakawa trees, Sarah and Ethan
playing on the beach and Chris having a lie down.

Ethan is actually a rather quiet and shy boy
something that doesn't come across in this photo:)