SURF'S UP

we've been out on the west coast for a few days, getting back in to surfing. Four days of riding waves and it's been so much fun! I just love surfing and sometimes get a buzz of happiness when I'm out there. On the first and second day conditions were quite rough, as they can be on the infamous west coast but it settled at the end of the third day.

Yesterday, our last day, I even dared to venture out the back to catch the proper waves, as opposed to secondary ones and white water I had been catching when I was still learning to stand up, and stay up.
So there I was out the back,with the big boys and girls - I call them the sharks- sitting on my board like a pro, gazing out to sea. It it surprisingly quiet out there considering how many people there are, maybe 10-15 surfers that look like they know what they're doing, it is almost as if there is an unwritten rule not to talk. They just sit there, looking out to sea, and at each other, waiting for the perfect wave. I almost got the feeling that I didn't belong there, in my cheap wetsuit and my board of an obscure brand nobody's ever heard of, KONZO. And being new to this lark I probably just got in the way.But at least I gave it a go! In the end me and KONZO moved on, closer to the swimming part of the beach where the waves were sort of second best but not so busy. I could have stayed with the sharks and jostled for waves but after all, that's not what were about, me and KONZO, we don't want to sit out the back for ages waiting for the perfect wave, we just want to catch anything, get up and ride it in to the beach and have fun!The funniest thing happened yesterday when Harly and I caught the same wave, riding close together and shaking hands, that made me laugh!
riding the white water to the end on my second day of surfing